With the current strain on the cheaper and the housing market , it is becoming more and more common to "make do with what we have" which means instead of remodeling we are restoring.
The request lies here, is it cost effective? Is it going to last? What is the maintenance involved? Why are you going to payment me 0 to re-glaze my tub when I can buy a new one for 0? These are all capability questions which deserve capability answers.
Tub Shower
Let's start with cost. First of all, the average cost of a tub setup is in any place between ,400 and ,500 and that does not factor in the tub surround. When your old tub is removed the tile at the base of the tub must be demolished. It is potential that a "good" installer can demo in such a way that you only have to fix the first row or two of tile. The reality is if it is older than 10 years finding a match for the tile will probably be impossible and will lead to a faultless re-tile. Now, you are finding at about ,000 to ,000 just to replace the tub and is this cost effective for you? Be ready from the occasion you resolve to dress up that tub to make this decision.
Now, a good re-glaze can last great than 10 years if done properly and there is a process which will ensure this. Preparation, stock and technique are the key to a long lasting finish. If this technique is not followed your re-glaze will last in any place from 1 day to 2 years. Two years may sound like a lot but when someone else company has to go in and strip the old stop off add someone else 0 to the re-glaze for a total of 0 to have it re-glazed again. This is not cost effective. If you're going to do it, do it right the first time and you will pat yourself on the back 5 years later when your tub still has a shine and is not peeling. Now let's get down to process.
The re-glazing process can be six to seven steps.
Removal of any caulking materials. Silicone is a contaminant and will cause the stop to fish eye. It is prominent to remove all traces of this by means of a silicone digester Next, the old pottery needs to be etched by means of an acid paste. This process will prepare the surface for the primer When the acid etch is faultless the surface must be wiped down with a solvent de-greaser to ensure that there are no more contaminants left behind Primer - The surface must be primed with an epoxy primer to ensure allowable cross hatching of compounds (i.e.-porcelain to primer, primer to finish, stop to clear coat) stop - The surface is then sprayed with an acrylic-urethane resin which can be tinted to any color you desire. It comes in two types, 24hr cure and 72hr cure. The 72hr cure is best if you don't mind waiting the extra time but the 24hr cure is good too. Clear coat - The surface is then sprayed with an acrylic urethane clear coat which will kick up the gloss a bit and furnish protection from common household chemicals If you are refinishing from a previous re-glaze, the stop must be stripped. If this is the case, add this step before the first.
When these steps are followed, you can be sure your re-glaze is going to last for years. A good refinisher will give you at least a 10 year warranty "in writing", now that is cost effective! You will be happy and have just saved at least 70% of the cost of replacement.
Maintenance
With the process you have just done, maintenance will be a breeze. You may also use rubber mats which many re-glazers will not recommend plainly because they know it will peel. You will be able to use soft scrub and a white 3M cleaning pad without harming the surface. You will also be able to safely dye your hair without the fear of staining your stop providing the clear coat was used. With this in mind, re-glazing is not only practical but a very cost effective explication to replacement.
Your project when faultless will look as though it was installed yesterday salvage you 00s on an install.
Tub and Tile Reglazing advice
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