Many builders set tubs and shower stalls early in the building process, before the quit floor is installed, but I think it's great to have the quit floor run underneath the tub than stop at the edge. This helps preclude water from penetrating straight through the inevitable seam that will open up and into the sub floor, where it can cause rot. Besides, a caulked joint here looks terrible. This will mean taking extra care of the quit floor, and will complicate hanging drywall, but it will result in a great seeing and more waterproof bathroom.
Hopefully the valve wall will have been framed to leave an empty stud bay centered over the tub drain. Blocking will finally be needed to securely attach both the shower stubout and the faucet body to the framing, and it can be either a piece of 2x cutoff or a scrap of 3/4-in. Plywood (which is less likely to split). The blocking will have to be set at the strict height for both the faucet and the shower head. A typical faucet height is 30 in., and a typical shower head height is 72 in., but these can be discrete according to personal preference.
Tub Shower
Setting the blocking at the strict depth in the wall is a itsybitsy trickier and depends on the single type of faucet, as well as the type of quit wall. Some faucets have a itsybitsy degree of adjustability (sometimes less than 1 in.), while others are more adaptable to distinct wall-surface depths. Some manufacturers offer extensions, a feature that you'll appreciate if your client changes his or her mind about a shower wall-surface material, like from a thin Corian to a thick mortar-bed-and-tile surface. Many faucets come with plastic setting gauges that indicate the strict mounting depth for the valve.
A possible question with one-piece or two-piece tub units and shower stalls is that the valves and stubouts can get in the way of sliding the unit into the framing. If the valve is on a sidewall instead of a back wall, the protruding stubouts will mean you won't be able to slide the unit into place very easily, if at all. In that case, you'll have to wait until the unit is in place to install blocking and to attach the plumbing to the blocking because you'll need to be able to pull everything back into the stud bay to slide the plastic tub or shower unit in place. If the valve wall is an outside wall (not a good idea in a cold climate), then you may have to entrance the wall from the outside of the building.
A typical tub/shower set-ups, like walk-in showers, need to be roughed-in to adapt their single water-supply and drain theory needs. For example, a tiled shower floor with a waterproofing membrane will wish a two-piece clamping drain set high adequate to adapt a sloped mud floor, the waterproofing membrane, mortar or adhesive, and tile. If there will be multiple shower heads or valves, they too will have to be roughed-in according to the needs of that single installation, and will probably wish the expertise of a plumber to ensure adequate water pressure and temperature.
Tubs and Showers
No comments:
Post a Comment